Untitled Document
- Rope Length: 75'
- Rope Size: 3/8" Grabline by Sterling
- Load Max: 3282 lbs.
- NFPA Certified
- Mesh topped bag for quicker drying
- Reflective strips along throw bag
Highly visible Cordura Rescue Bags quickly secure to D-rings, boat frames or canoe thwarts with quick-release 1" straps. Internal flotation and floating rescue rope keep our Rescue Bags on top of the water, while polyethylene-sheathed grab loops make for easy grasping. Barrel-lock drawstring closure keeps the rope securely stowed between uses. A convenient loop and "cup" hold a glow stick or "chem light".
Rope knots reduce tensile strength. for this reason, we make no claims regarding a rescue bag's strength. Maximum load indicated is for the rope alone.
Rescue Bag Basics !
 |
The Rescue/Throw Bag is a vital piece of safety equipment, used to rescue a swimmer, and in some cases to help unpin a boat. There should be a minimum of one per boat on any trip. Bags come in various shapes and sizes, but fall into two main categories - bags worn on the boater's waist and bulkier ones carried in the boat.
The bags are made of nylon or other synthetic material and contain some closed cell foam to keep the empty bag afloat. Open the bag just enough to pull some rope out. Hold the free end securely and toss the bag to the swimmer. Rope used in the bags is at least partially made of polypropylene, because it floats. The bright color of bags and rope make them easily visible to both the swimmer and the rescuer. |
Throwing the bag to a swimmer can be done from shore or on the water from a stable platform like a raft or drift boat. An underhand throw, "softball pitch" style, is a natural, instinctive motion. You may get more distance with an overhand, "baseball pitch" toss. A sidearm throw may be necessary, depending on your position, obstructions, etc, but accuracy may suffer. Practice tossing your rescue bag ahead of time; don't let an emergency catch you unprepared.
When using a throw bag to rescue a swimmer, do your best to make sure you're not making the situation worse by your efforts. NEVER tie your end of the rope to yourself or any object; always be prepared to release the rope if need be. When setting up a rescue position on shore, plan for where you can bring the swimmer to shore, ideally into an eddy or slower water; not into rocks, holes or other obstacles. For your protection, always wear your PFD when assisting in a rescue, should you get pulled into the water. |
|
 |
Try to get the swimmer's attention, with whistle blasts or shouts, before throwing the rescue bag. Ideally, toss it so that the bag sails past the swimmer and line falls across their chest. If you have their attention before you throw, they can move to the rope if you miss. The swimmer should grab the line, not the bag, hold the line across the chest and turn on their back so you can pendulum them into shore or pull them to the boat. Discuss proper rescue techniques before starting a trip, like in the Rafting Put-in Safety Talk.
If you miss with the first throw, pull the bag in, coiling the rope at your feet or in your hand. The bag should be full of water, giving it enough weight to toss again. You can also throw the coil of rope, although you won't be able to get the same distance. Be careful not to get tangled in the loose rope. And speaking of getting tangled, along with having a rescue bag, it is essential that you also have a sharp knife - in case it's necessary to cut the rope to protect yourself or the swimmer. |
Swift moving water puts amazing pressure on a swimmer. When the rope becomes taut, the shock on you and the swimmer can pull the rope from your hands. Try to minimize that shock by slowing the swimmer's progress more gradually by moving along the bank or letting out some line.
For a stronger grip than just holding the rope in your hands, borrow a climber's technique, the "belay". Pass the rope across your back, down low on the hips or higher across the shoulder. You can sit and brace your feet against rocks or the boat. Another rescuer can assist by grabbing your PFD and helping with the brace. You can also apply friction to the rope by wrapping or bending it around a tree, rock, etc. Again, do not tie the rope to yourself or an object. |
|
 |
Prolong the life of your rope by rinsing and drying it after each outing. When restuffing the bag, coil the rope directly into the bag. Coiling it first and then putting it into the bag can cause a tangle that prevents the rope from smoothly flowing out of the bag when tossed.
For those of us who often drive along fast moving rivers, also having a rescue bag in your vehicle can be a lifesaver. People have been saved by a quick thinking motorist who was able to toss them a line.
The bottom line is - always have a rescue bag handy and practice using it. And make sure your boating buddies have them too. The life that gets saved could be yours.
You can find more excellent information on rescue bag usage and other swiftwater rescue techniques in the Whitewater Rescue Manual, by Charlie Walbridge and Wayne Sundmacher and Swiftwater Rescue, by Slim Ray. |
For on-the-water safety, nothing beats taking a swiftwater rescue class, where you get instruction and practice in rescue techniques.
Boat Safe!
Know the Ropes !
Until high-quality synthetic fibers like polypropylene, nylon and polyester were developed in the 1950s and 60s, most ropes used for outdoor activities like boating and climbing were made from natural fibers. As you can see from the information below, synthetics have revolutionized safety and rescue rope application and techniques. Information in this article was provided by Sam Morton, Rescue/Safety Manager for Sterling Rope Company.
Rope Construction
The rope construction used for most modern rescue and climbing ropes is referred to as "kernmantle." The braided sheath (mantle) surrounds and protects the twisted parallel core (kern) fibers.
Ropes for different applications have their own unique design for maximum performance. Matching design with construction becomes a balancing act that leads to many considerations: how much it can stretch, its ability to absorb impact, strength, handling qualities and durability.
Important characteristics for ropes used in many boating applications are: ability to float, visibility and strength. Water has a specific gravity (SG) of 1.0, so anything with an SG less than that floats in it and those with a higher SG sink in it. Polypropylene and its derivatives have a specific gravity less than 1.0, making them ideal for throw ropes. Our floating rescue ropes are all brightly colored, in yellow, red or a combination of the two colors.
Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene (UHMWP) fiber has an extraordinarily high tensile strength and relatively low stretch. Dyneema and Spectra are trade names for this fiber. Pound for pound, it's stronger than steel. It's used in our high-strength rescue ropes, increasing the strength of similar diameter standard polypropylene ropes over 2.5 times. It also has a SG less than 1.0, so it floats. You'll notice that this fiber is only used as the core (kern) of our ropes. The main reason for this is that UHMWP is very slippery and won't hold a knot. Polypropylene, which does hold a good knot, is used for the sheath (mantle) of these high-strength ropes.
Not all rescue ropes need to float. Our 1/2" Sterling Static Rope, which is also used in the NRS Z-Drag Kit, is made of 100% polyester fiber. Important characteristics of polyester for this application are that it is hydrophobic (fibers don't absorb water, which can weaken a rope) and it has very low stretch. The low stretch factor makes this rope very efficient in a Z-drag application. The definition of "static rope" is a rope with a maximum elongation of 6% at 10% of its minimum breaking strength.
NFPA Certified
A term you see on some of our ropes is "NFPA Certified." The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) is a non-profit organization that sets standards for much of the equipment used by fire fighting and rescue agencies. They don't do the actual testing; that is done by third party organizations such as Underwriters Laboratories (UL). Many rescue agencies require the use of NFPA Certified rope and hardware in their work.
Care and Storage of Rope
Rope used during boating gets wet, of course, and gets dirty. After a trip, rinse your ropes in clean water and allow to dry before putting them away. Store your ropes in a cool, dry place away from chemicals and direct sunlight.
Regularly inspect your ropes. Do this visually and by sliding the rope through your hands. If the rope is excessively abraded or you have core coming through the sheath, it is time to retire the rope.
Knots and Strength Loss
The fibers in ropes, in the kern and in the mantle, are oriented to line up with the length of the rope, for maximum strength. The measure of this strength is commonly referred to as "tensile strength." They have low flexural strength, meaning they are not strong along their horizontal axis, which is why ropes lose significant amounts of strength when tied in knots. This loss of strength occurs when a rope is bent, as in a knot or going through a carabiner or pulley. Four inches is the magic number for maintaining full strength in a rope. Any bend tighter than four inches reduces the rope's strength. Common knots used in rescue situations can reduce a rope's strength by 20-40%.
|
|
|
